The cool, inviting shade of a deserted Retiro Park, a haven for those mad enough to be outside on a hot, oppressive afternoon in Madrid. We sat under the trees after hours on our feet, tired, thirsty and just a little irritable, as naïve tourists have a habit of being in warm countries. The coolness calmed, we caught our breath and allowed the sweat to dry for a few moments. And we relaxed, absorbing the soothing and reassuring beauty that surrounded us in our little piece of heaven, sitting under the shade trees.